Floreana Island – Galapagos Series – Chapter IV

in punta cormorant on floreana island - galapagos islands

The next morning was begun with another early wake-up call. The cruise ship had followed us once more, but this time to Floreana Island. We barely had time to wash a bit of crackers down our throat with coffee or tea, and stuff a banana down as well before jumping into the zodiacs to head ashore on Punta Cormorant. It was another wet-landing, so I decided it would be a flip-flop day. No sun had broken through the overhead clouds and reached the beach yet, so the trio of sea lions had taken an early morning swim in the bay and huddled together keeping warm on the sandy shore.

On the horizon you could see a group of mountains that reminded me of Arizona. Most would call them hills compared to other more dominant ranges like the North American Rockies or the South American Andes. They seemed light and fluffy, as if they were covered in dandelions that could be blown away by wind to leave the mountainous hills bare.

the lagoon on floreana island - flamingos pose here from december to may

We gathered and headed up a slight hill, surrounded by the bare-limbed, white colored dandelion trees on both sides. Just so you know, they’re really black and white mangrove trees. An occasional bird – each a different species – could be seen perched or fluttering about on the the branches. Eventually, we reached the first stop on our exploration of Floreana Island, which was named after the first president of Ecuador, Juan Jose Flores, who took control of the Galapagos Islands. It was a lookout point constructed of wood and resembled a patio at the back of a house.

The group crammed together on the patio lookout and glanced at the landscape. A lagoon was slowly rippling with the slight breeze. It’s surface was able to keep the glassy reflection of the trees that lined its edges and the clouds. Tour Guide George explained how the Galapagos Islands never receive rain. When the clouds pile up overhead, they release a mist, but that is all, according to Tour Guide George. Hence, there being no fresh-water streams, rivers or lakes. Simply, lagoons that connect to the ocean. However, my own research had told me otherwise.

Apparently the Galapagos archipelago experiences some frequent rain showers. The islands also take part in the El Niño phenomenon, which brings heavy rains along with it. From June to November, known as the Garua, there are drizzles that last all day and from December to May there are some strong rains every once in a while. Maybe I just misheard the endemic Tour Guide George while I was taking pictures of the breath-taking nature around me at that moment.

sea turtle nests on floreana island

This lagoon is known to have pink flamingos visit from December to May. Sadly, we missed out on seeing the sophisticated creatures. After the quick educational lesson, we  continued on the path toward another bay – this one being very special. A little ways up the shore, a pattern could be seen in the white-sand beach. A number of rounded dugouts had been made, separated by mere inches from one another. Tour Guide George explained that these were sea-turtle nests and had just been emptied, pointing out the baby’s tracks that led to the ocean water.

I could see pieces of hatched eggs still sitting in one of the nests. We walked along the shore, the first feet to touch the sand that day – a perk of waking up at 5 a.m. – to try and look for any sea turtles that didn’t make it to the ocean. Overhead a black bird, most likely a Frigate, was soaring with its peering eyes to hopefully beat us to a baby to make it breakfast. Unfortunately for us and the bird, but lucky for the sea turtles, we did not find one. During the search party, I did get to see a sea lion basking in the sun, a Yellow Warbler prancing around on the sand and a Least Sandpiper running around on the beach.

looking out for sting rays on floreana island

We spent some time here exploring. I got to inspect my first set of tide-pools, which were sadly mostly empty but there were plenty of Sally Lightfoot crabs picking at the rocks for food. Tour Guide George had us gather around again to tell us that this bay area was known for having plenty of sting rays in the shallow areas. He had us go up to our knees in the ocean water to look at them. At one point, he grabbed my arm and pulled me around pointing at each one of them. I stood still enough that I felt them nibbling at my feet – either that or it was seaweed but I didn’t see any floating seaweed.

When I felt them, I pulled my leg up in fear, making myself look like a flamingo standing in the water. The waves were carrying the stingrays right up to us and some of the group actually said they stepped on one or two. Eventually, I walked back a bit to some of the more nervous bystanders, and was even lucky enough to see a stingray flap its “wings” on the surface of the water before disappearing beneath it once more.

After we all decided that we risked our lives enough, we headed back to the other side of the island to wait for the zodiacs to arrive. The sun had finally made its appearance and Tour Guide George was able to show us the crystals that give the beach its green olivine color.

green olivine crystals on floreana island - photo credit: rachel tavel

The crystals glistened underneath the sun and with a close eye, I could really seen the hint of green against the dark sand on the beach. Some sort of chemical reaction with lava creates the green crystals, which add to the majestic beauty of one more Galapagos island. Not too much later, the zodiacs rushed ashore to pick us up and take us for a nice breakfast on the catamaran before we would  put on our wetsuits again. Next stop: Champion Islet for another snorkeling opportunity – this time with some special friends.

a bird pirched on a tree branch in the floreana island lagoon

sea turtle tracks leading to the ocean on floreana island

least sandpiper on floreana island beach

yellow warbler on floreana island

Gardner Bay – Galapagos Scrolls – Chapter III

The Nina in front of Gardner Bay - Galapagos Islands

The Nina sailed onto Gardner Bay after completion of our early morning exploration of Española Island.  We were eating lunch and I believe it was during this quick intermission between adventures that a smile was permanently sewn into my face for the remainder of the voyage (minus one unfortunate evening//night that you’ll read about in an upcoming chapter) because my expectations of the Galapagos Islands had already been surpassed. In just one morning – not even a full day – I had seen the rest of the animals that I wanted to see while island hopping. The landscapes reminded me of home, as well as my favorite t.v. show Xena: Warrior Princess. In other words, I could have left after this day and been a happy camper. I didn’t know how much better it could get – or even if it was possible – but it was.

Lounging with the sea lions in Gardner Bay

Tour Guide George came to the dining room and told us to get prepared for a wet landing on the beach of Gardner Bay. We could bring our snorkeling gear if we wanted or our towels to sun-bathe for a bit. It was early enough in the afternoon that we would have time to relax on the soft, white-sand beach. After putting on our swimming suits and layering our bodies with sunscreen, we boarded the zodiacs once more, but this time with no shoes. One by one we properly swung our legs over the side of the zodiac, letting our feet touch the cool water for the first time on our voyage, and walked ashore. Instantly, we were greeted with the sight of crowds and crowds of sea lions.

After the group had gathered ashore, tour guide George told us we had free time to sun-bathe with the sea lions, swim with the sea lions in the bay, snorkel with the sea turtles and explore the bay area as far as the group of rocks down the shoreline. My friend and I placed our bags near some logs and took off walking to get some shots with the sea lions that were just cuddled up in the sand, letting the sum warm them. A few were swimming along the beach, playing with each other – mainly mums and their babies. It amused me that they let the waves just roll them around as they crashed upon the sand. It was as if they preferred that area, letting their bodies swirl with the current.

a sea lion letting the ocean waves crash upon him in gardner bay

Once our stroll along the bay’s beach ended at the rocky point, we turned around and met up with our Norwegian friend who decided to smooth out her towel on the soft, white sand and take out her book. I went over to my backpack leaning against the log and pulled out my towel to join her. My friend shared half the towel with me after stripping down to her bathing suit to sun-tan. It wasn’t long before I got distracted by the sea lions and decided to go play with them.

At first, it was merely a picture-taking opportunity. I wanted to see how close I could get to posing with them and ended up being snorted at by a playful sea lion. It scared me a bit, because we had been almost nose-to-nose but then it started to wander away. I followed along, pretending to be a sea lion to amuse my friends before going back to the yellow towel to relax a bit. I still can’t get over the fact that we were sun-bathing with sea lions in the Galapaos Islands. These were animals that I’ve only seen as cartoons in movies or performance shows at Sea World, and yet, here they were in their natural environment lounging right beside us.

sun-bathing with sea lions in gardner bay

Within a few short minutes, tour guide George came and said that we should go back to the ship so we could get ready to snorkel. Once on board, we started squeezing into our wetsuits and putting on our fins that had been tried on and put aside in our snorkel bags with our room numbers on them. They would be ours for the duration of the voyage, keeping it organized and allowing us not to waste time trying every wetsuit on before each snorkeling opportunity. While we were getting prepared, the boat sailed to one of the 107 rocks and islets that are also apart of the Galapagos. Once stopped, we loaded the zodiacs again with our fins and goggles in hands and headed to the launch point.

We spit and squirted shampoo into the goggles to ensure clear vision, put on our fins and slowly, one by one, fell into the cold water. Tour guide George led us along the wall of the islet, where we could see underwater plants that grew on the rock. The water was incredibly deep and murky, making me a bit hesitant because I knew sharks also roamed this ocean.  I could barely see any fishes or plants deep down and so I stayed as close to the islet’s wall as possible. However, the bare visibility made my Norwegian-expat friend extremely nervous, and she asked to hold hands with me as we snorkeled.

my friend and i doing the blue-footed mating dance before heading out to snorkel

The group was slowly making its way around the islet, and my friend and I were in the middle hoping no shark would mistake us for a tasty sea lion. Not too long afterward, we were flapping our flippers and moving along with our eyes dashing back-and-forth when a GiANT sea lion popped right out of a murky underwater cloud. It was looking right at us as he swam past underneath of us. My Norwegian-expat friend and I let out a surprised scream. We popped our heads out of the water and looked at each other with large eyes. We eventually began laughing and smiling, looking around to see if anyone else in the group had noticed before we put our mouth pieces back in and placed our heads back on the water’s surface.

I regretfully did not have an under-water digital camera to shoot videos or pictures with during the voyage. I simply had a Kodak under-water film camera, which has not been developed yet. I apologize for the lack of under-water pictures.

We reached a small cove in the islet where we were allowed to snorkel around a bit. The zodiacs were always close by in case we raised our hands, which was the signal that we were done and ready to get out of the water. The cove had much better visibility and was not as deep. I could actually see white sand on the bottom and a variety of ocean plants. I was shocked once more, but this time it was because my Norwegian-expat friend had tugged at my arm. I looked at her and she pointed not too far ahead to a sea turtle gracefully swimming through the water. Immediately, I detached from her and swam closer to the sea turtle, watching it right below me. I followed it for as long as I could, not getting too far away from the group, until it disappeared into a murky cloud. After that, I felt like it had been a successful snorkel adventure and swam back to the zodiac where I climbed the mini-ladder and collapsed onto the side, shivering but still with that smile sewn into my face.

posing with sea lions in gardner bay

sea lion embracing sun's warmth in gardner bay

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

a sea lion swimming in gardner bay - the catamaran in the back

a pair of cuddly sea lions sun-bathing in gardner bay

Sun-Soaked on the Beach in Canoa, Ecuador

the beach at canoa, eucador

This past weekend my two friends and I escaped the clouds and cold temperatures in Quito. Our destination: Canoa, Ecuador. A small coastal town that has sandy roads, stray dogs and ceviche (a soup with shrimp). It is an under-developed area and largely a fishing community. The boats sit upon the beach, waiting to head out to sea and do their job.

the sandy main-strip in canoa, ecuador

Canoa’s atmosphere is extremely chill. Just like the rest of Ecuador, the shop doors open when the locals decide they want to wake up and get to work. Besides fishing, the main income seems to be from the tourists or Ecuadorians who want to get-away for a bit and relax. Most of Canoa’s main-strip is composed of juice and ram-shackle restaurants, the occasional handicraft station with bracelets, necklaces and other assorted trinkets will pop up during the day.

our adorable, floppy-ear dog friend we made in canoa, ecuador

Other than that, the roads rarely feel the bare-feet or flip-flops walking upon them, mainly the paws of the stray dogs that could equal the number of people in Canoa. One of the dogs followed us around every time we ran into each other. His left eye was big and blue, multiple sizes larger than the other. We found out from a local that someone had apparently hit him with the rock. Quite upsetting.

To get there, we took an overnight bus ride ($9) from Quito that is roughly six or seven hours long and extremely bumpy. I did not sleep at all due to the rough ride and freezing temperatures inside the bus. However, as soon as we stepped off and looked to our left, the ocean lay out before us and the warmth of the coastal air our enveloped us. All was forgotten. After a quick nap in our room at the unbelievable Hotel Bambu that is located right on the beach, we had lunch and hit the waves.

rent a surfboard for $3/hr in canoa, ecuador

You can rent surfboards for $3 an hour, or sign up for lessons. We decided to try it out ourselves and did pretty well. It was carefree and full of fun, what we came for in an effort to escape the structure of our weeks. The waves were not too large, perfect for beginners. If you don’t like surfing, you can always take a kayak tour through the caves or try paragliding if the wind is strong enough. Or simply, soak up the sun while laying on your towel on the warm sand. Watch out for the creepy, crawling crabs that scurry in and out of the holes they dig to escape the onslaught of oncoming waves.

Note: Canoa does not have a bank or ATM so make sure you bring your cash when you come. It’s not expensive but you will want to do the activities this cozy little place has to offer.

In the evening, the hotel//hostel has a Happy Hour and you get two drinks for the price of one. The patio area is filled with people eating, drinking, reading and relaxing as the sun sets over the ocean’s horizon, coloring the sky in shades of pink and oranges. At night, Canoa becomes a bit more lively. Locals and tourists are sitting on the beach, cuddling or merely listening to the rolling waves.

the orange sun setting over the beach in canoa, ecuador

The corner “Pirate Ship” turns on its strobe lights and the hostel and local crowd come out to play … and drink. There is one specific drink that all travelers are warned about (a sign was even posted on the wall in the lounge//library at our hostel) that has severe side-effects like diarrhea, headache and upset stomach. Basically a disastrous hangover that will ruin the rest of your time in Canoa and maybe some time afterward.

Here is an excerpt from a a blogpost I found that provides the name and ingredients:

There is the famous drink from Canoa, “Uña de la Grand Bestia”. This “Claw of the Great Beast” is made by marinating scorpions, giant centipedes, and marijuana stalks in caña before selling it for a dollar a shot.

Personally, I don’t know who would even buy it in the first place and then, my friend who had a couple of drinks before the Pirate Ship ended up getting one (answering that question that you’d have to be drunk before even considering taking this shot) and the night was over. She woke up not feeling well at all. Wasn’t able to surf with with us the next day, mostly laying around. After my surfing session, some of the locals and tourists were walking down the beach past us near the cliffs because a sea-turtle had washed ashore.

a sea-turtle washed ashore on the beach in canoa, ecuador

Since turtles are one of my favorite animals we immediately rushed down with our cameras at the ready. The locals were talking about how the turtles either come ashore to die or lay eggs. We decided to remain positive and chose to believe it was to lay eggs. A full moon was supposed to occur that night and there is supposedly a myth that hatchlings leave the nest during one. However, my conscience kept reminding me that it was only one sea-turtle and not many partaking in such a beautiful moment.

Saturday night is when all the dance clubs blast their music. You can dance hip-hop or latin, or both in the same evening on the beach under a straw hut or on the corner in a building. We checked out one place with a surfer friend and another guy from our hostel we made acquaintances with the previous night at the Pirate Ship. Most of the locals remembered us, being such a small town.

it was a great weekend chillin' on the beach in canoa, ecuador

We couldn’t stay out too late because our bus left at 7 a.m. the next morning, so we fell asleep to 5 different types of music playing until the early hours of the morning. The bus ride back took a bit longer but we made it safely back to the hustle-and-bustle of Quito and its cloudy skies with tan skin and rosy cheeks.

Here is a video I put together of our time in Canoa, Ecuador:

Isle of Palms & the rest of South Carolina

The last stop on my News21 road-trip across South Carolina was in the Mt. Pleasant and Charleston area along the coast. I had to cross this beautiful bridge (I took a video of it on my phone but have yet to find out how to get it from my phone to YouTube) and was right at my hotel.

As soon as I got to the check-in counter I asked the lady how do I get to the water. She kindly took out a map and used a marker to plot my course, at the same time providing verbal directions. I threw my luggage on my bed and grabbed the camera equipment, thinking this would be another grand opportunity to shoot some B-Roll. I headed out and took the proper right turn and followed it all the way (across another bridge), noticing the sunset and water appearing right before my windshield.

I paid for parking and let my feet find the soft, smooth sand of the Carolina shoreline. The water of the North Atlantic ocean was warm and inviting. Fishing poles were cast from the pier into the water below. Families were relaxing and kids were playing soccer. Couples walked hand-in-hand along the waterline watching the sunset paint the sky with its shades of orange and purple. Daring teens jumped onto their skimboards in the water, only to fall mere seconds later.

Watching the sky grow darker, I picked up a collection of seashells that I knew would find themselves in the trash can later. For me, this was the best way to end one hectic trip across a state that I had never visited before. The people were truly hospitable and showed their Southern comfort at every moment, sadly not as much on the roads. I believe I have never seen as much green in my life than I did during this trip. I honestly lost count of how many times I pulled over to the side of the road to take pictures of the verde land or the cliche river bridges, and water in general. Despite the green pastures sprawling everywhere, it made me miss the dry-heat I have taken for granted growing up in the Valley of the Sun my entire life. Although I never did get to have a taste of the infamous Southern food, I sincerely felt like I left South Carolina with a satisfactory taste in my mind.

These were some of the photographs from my trip down South.