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Conquering Camelback Mountain in Arizona

View from the top of Camelback Mountain

My twin sister decided to introduce me to Camelback, which is a famous mountain – or hill, depending on the mountains you’ve grown up with wherever you live – in Arizona because it resembles a camel lying down in the desert surroundings. It has also gained a reputation for being a rather difficult hike/trek with many people getting hurt and air-lifted off the mountain. As we drove to the trail, my sister told me a story of how ambulances were taking someone away the very first time she was going to hike it. YiKES!

Camelback is so popular that the parking lot fills up rather quickly, leaving many people to park farther down in the neighborhood streets. When we arrived the parking lot was packed and a line of cars were waiting for people to leave for their chance to get a spot. My sister and I opted for the other parking areas. We started driving and saw groups of people running and walking to the trailhead from the parking area, which also turned out to be filled. We had no choice but to park in the rocky landscape with other cars and make the walk to the trailhead. I jokingly told my sister that this could be our warm-up.

I learned from my sister that the hike can take up to 3-hours, so we took a deep breath and braved the porta-potties before starting the hike. According to my sister, there are two sides to climb to the top of Camelback. One is an easy hike with a flat path that only gets a bit dangerous – picture a high-wire, you walk on the edge of the mountain – before you reach the top. The other, which we took, is steep the entire way up and includes lots of boulder hopping.

Hiking Camelback Mountain!

After you climb up the stairs, you get a break on a flat path that winds along a fence that keeps you from falling off the edge before getting to the first of two real steep ascents. Both of these climbs have a steel handle-bar to assist you up the rock’s surface. It is amazing to see how people get up these areas of the hike. Some opt for no handle-bar and literally crawl up while others cling to the fence or bar, and others who are descending are walking backwards holding onto the bar. After each ascent, most hikers take a break to catch their breath and watch the other hikers before getting to the boulder areas.

This was probably my favorite part. You could either go up the boulder crevice or climb the surface of the red rocks next to it. The surface was so flat and had this texture that you could literally stand up straight and walk up it. It looked like you were walking side-ways up this rock, it was brilliant. I was so nervous though that for the first bit of it I clung with my face smashed up to the surface because I didn’t want to fall. With the assurance of my twin sister, I finally stood up half-way up and walked up, feeling the burning in my calves the entire way.

Helicopter hovering while searching for an injured hiker

We venture onward and saw a helicopter making multiple rounds of the mountain, at points hovering. The pilot used its speaker to call out to hikers to assist them in their rescue attempt. “If you are by the injured hiker, please wave your arms.” All the hikers began pointing in the direction of the hiker that they passed during their descent. My sister and I pointed upward after noticing the people helping. We eventually saw the injured girl being nursed by her hiking partners. It appeared as if it was her ankle, which was no surprise because climbing the boulders – and at times jumping from one to the next – could easily lead to your foot slipping.

Christmas tree on top of Camelback Mountain

My sister told me we were near the top and our speed grew faster during the last portion. Our legs were burning and our breaths were quick, but we reached the apex where a crowd of hikers were resting and eating while enjoying the view. The Christmas tree was still up there along with a few decorated bushes. One group decided to take their Christmas picture for next year. We only had a few minutes of rest before we started our descent. On the way down we saw a girl who had just sprained her ankle a minute prior. She was in tears and being comforted by her friends. We continued on and made sure our feet were firmly planted before pressing on to the next boulder and the next…and the next. It was much faster on the way down and when we reached the wooden stairs, smiles replaced the open mouths that gasped for air the entire way up and down.

Hikers resting and eating snacks on top of Camelback Mountain

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Arizona: Tallest Christmas Tree in the Nation

Tonight my parents and I walked around the outlets in Anthem. We normally don’t frequent the shopping center but they had something special to offer: the tallest Christmas tree in the nation. I find it odd that a city in Arizona would be able to get the tallest tree, but hey, at least we have the ability to admire and appreciate the tree since we are not stuck in feet of snow or have to bear freezing temperatures and wind chill to enjoy it. Let me tell you, this tree was massive.  I was unable to fit the tree in its entirety into any picture (I can’t wait to get my panoramic camera under the tree – yes, I know that I’m getting one, I had to pick it out). It towers over the tops of the shops and can be seen from miles down the highway that the outlets are located beside. Underneath its limbs are giant presents and toys for kids and families to stand in front of for picture-taking opportunities.

It is good to see it in the daylight, not only for the picture-taking, but because you get the chance to see the huge ornaments that decorate the tree. At night when it is lit up, all you can see are the twinkling Christmas lights, which are still a beautiful sight to behold and definitely get you in the holiday spirit.

According to the details:

  • The 110-foot tall tree came from Northern California.
  • A huge crane was used to hoist the tree into place.
  • In total, 120 strings of lights and 3,000 ornaments decorate the massive tree.

nation's tallest christmas tree

standing under the tree with the presents

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

reflection in the giant ornament

nation's tallest christmas tree lit up

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Underwater Pictures – Galapagos Islands

Since I’ve returned to the States I have been able to develop the film from my underwater camera that I took to the Galapagos Islands. Here is what I discovered captured on my roll:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Post Office Bay – Galapagos Series – Chapter V

Each of us had to wade in the water to climb back into the zodiac to depart Floreana Island. I could not hide the grimace on my face when my my feet were drowned in the icey water. The sensation implanted itself into my mind and stayed there during breakfast and afterward when Tour Guide George came around telling us to suit up for our snorkeling adventure. I noticed most of the group sucking themselves into their tight wetsuits and grabbing the bags of fins and masks with their room numbers. As I continued to contemplate, I looked everywhere for my friend, whom I found clothed and ready to hit the sun-deck on the third level of the catamaran. She had decided to skip out of snorkeling this time, not because of the cold water but simply because it was not her cup of tea. She asked me whether or not I was going and I explained my fear of the freezing temperatures. Her reply, “I think you’re going.”

before diving into freezing waters to swim with sea lions

Sure enough, my friend was right. I had decided that since I was in THE Galapagos, I could not miss out on any opportunity. Within minutes, my wetsuit was squeezed on and I was sitting on the side of the catamaran bouncing off the water toward our destination. We reached a cove in Champion Islet and immediately noticed the two spunky sea lions darting around each other, popping in and out of the water. Tour Guide George said they were eager to play with us. One by one, people fell overboard and into the water. I was one of the last ones who reluctantly slipped into the arctic water, only to feel like I had just been stabbed in every inch of my body.

However, my body either adjusted or became numb because I put my head on the water’s surface and began flipping around watching the two sea lions frolicking underwater. I could never keep track of them because they were incredibly fast. We would pop up out of water to look around and realize one was right behind us. We would turn around and they would have disappeared underwater again. On a couple of occasions, the sea lion would come head-first straight at you, only to turn away or dive deep down. The group members were inches away from the sea lions, swimming and playing with them in their natural environment. Both the sea lions were twirling and spinning beneath us and it was amazing to watch. One of my friends I had made on the voyage could not stop giggling every time one of the sea lions would swim near her. Eventually, I was cold enough that I wanted to get out and warm up. I sat in the zodiac waiting for the others to slowly join me, hoping that my under-water camera was able to get some good shots of the magnificent animals.

zodiac cruising behind the catamaran heading to next stop

Sadly, Tour Guide George had the idea of heading to a different place known to have more sea lions. The group shivered as the zodiac made its way to the spot. Another tour group was in the area swimming in the freezing water without wetsuits and we couldn’t believe it. Looking at the water we could tell it was a bit rough and by then, most of us had dried a bit and didn’t want to jump back in. the water We decided to head back to the catamaran. We jumped aboard, took off our wetsuits and warmed up with tea that the crew had set out for us. After every snorkeling trip the crew would have some sort of snack and beverage waiting for us on deck and it was always thankfully devoured.

Once we regained feeling in our bodies, Tour Guide George told us that we would be heading to Post Office Bay and said it also offered an opportunity to snorkel with sea turtles. That brightened me up, but sadly, I had already made up my mind that I was done with snorkeling for the day. A few of us sat up on the sun-deck relaxing until departure time. With a view of the bay I was able to see a sea turtle floating around in the water. It was bittersweet to say the least and to make it worse, Post Office Bay was unfortunately another wet-landing.

I braced myself for the cold and raced out of the water as fast as I could. The weather had turned cloudy and the temperatures had dropped to the point that I was layered in clothes. Being from Arizona, we always like to say, anything below 70 is freezing to us. Tour Guide George took us on a little path through the brush to an area that resembled a bonfire setup. This was the Post Office, and the itinerary provided a brief explanation as to its history:

the post office is still in use after 18th century whalers first began the tradition

At Post Office Bay, eighteenth century whalers used a barrel as an unofficial mail drop. In those times ships were often away from home for two or more years at a time. Ships on their outward journeys would leave letters and ships returning home would pick them up and bring them to their homeland.

Some of the original wood was still present, whereas others had been added, their surfaces scribbled with the names and messages of previous visitors. The main attraction of the post office is the 200-year-old barrel that looks like a giant birdhouse with stickers plastered all over it. Inside are piles and piles of postcards left by travelers. The traditions has each visitor leave a postcard, which requires no postage stamp. When a new group arrives, such as ours, we open the little door to the barrel, pull out the postcards, divide them amongst ourselves and find ones that are addressed in areas as close to our homes. as possible If we find one, or two, or three – in the case of my friend from New York – we take them back with us and either personally deliver them if they are close enough, or mail them to their final destinations. It is truly an amazing experience to see who stepped on the island before you and read what the have to say.

the group carrying on the tradition, looking for postcards they could send once back home

The group members would shout out countries and states to each other, passing a postcards here and there. It could take weeks, months and even years for them to be delivered, depending on where the travelers are from and where the postcards are addressed. I came across a few that said “Do not take”, which meant that the post-sender wanted it to be picked up by someone else – such as the Navy. Once or twice a year – I forgot what Tour Guide George said – the Navy comes a long and picks up all the cards that have not been taken to mail once they reach port. Overall, it was a lovely tradition that I was happy to continue, even though I didn’t find any postcards to send once I returned home. Hopefully someone from Arizona visits and picks mine up!

We returned back to the beach where we were allowed to rest. Most of us went to go watch the soccer game that was taking place for a few minutes. There was an entire field of men dressed in jerseys and some were recognizable as part of our ship’s crew. Even this far out on a tiny island, the game of soccer – or football – still carried on just like the Post Office tradition. Quite a few of us were getting really cold so Tour Guide George used his walkie-talkie to request that the zodiacs come and take us to the warmth of the catamaran. I could already feel the effects of the the weather and freezing water from snorkeling with sea lions taking its toll on me.

soccer match being played at post office bay

That night was gruesome for me. As soon as I got back on the ship I took a hot shower and crawled into bed. I missed the briefing for that evening, as well as dinner. To spare the gritty details, the toilet became my friend throughout the dark hours about three times. When I finally let my head hit the pillow, the question of whether or not I would be taking part in the next day’s adventure was still up in the air.

hundreds die a year after attempting to eat a blowfish

the post office sign

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the barrel where all the postcards can be found

 

one of the many messages left at post office bay

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Floreana Island – Galapagos Series – Chapter IV

in punta cormorant on floreana island - galapagos islands

The next morning was begun with another early wake-up call. The cruise ship had followed us once more, but this time to Floreana Island. We barely had time to wash a bit of crackers down our throat with coffee or tea, and stuff a banana down as well before jumping into the zodiacs to head ashore on Punta Cormorant. It was another wet-landing, so I decided it would be a flip-flop day. No sun had broken through the overhead clouds and reached the beach yet, so the trio of sea lions had taken an early morning swim in the bay and huddled together keeping warm on the sandy shore.

On the horizon you could see a group of mountains that reminded me of Arizona. Most would call them hills compared to other more dominant ranges like the North American Rockies or the South American Andes. They seemed light and fluffy, as if they were covered in dandelions that could be blown away by wind to leave the mountainous hills bare.

the lagoon on floreana island - flamingos pose here from december to may

We gathered and headed up a slight hill, surrounded by the bare-limbed, white colored dandelion trees on both sides. Just so you know, they’re really black and white mangrove trees. An occasional bird – each a different species – could be seen perched or fluttering about on the the branches. Eventually, we reached the first stop on our exploration of Floreana Island, which was named after the first president of Ecuador, Juan Jose Flores, who took control of the Galapagos Islands. It was a lookout point constructed of wood and resembled a patio at the back of a house.

The group crammed together on the patio lookout and glanced at the landscape. A lagoon was slowly rippling with the slight breeze. It’s surface was able to keep the glassy reflection of the trees that lined its edges and the clouds. Tour Guide George explained how the Galapagos Islands never receive rain. When the clouds pile up overhead, they release a mist, but that is all, according to Tour Guide George. Hence, there being no fresh-water streams, rivers or lakes. Simply, lagoons that connect to the ocean. However, my own research had told me otherwise.

Apparently the Galapagos archipelago experiences some frequent rain showers. The islands also take part in the El Niño phenomenon, which brings heavy rains along with it. From June to November, known as the Garua, there are drizzles that last all day and from December to May there are some strong rains every once in a while. Maybe I just misheard the endemic Tour Guide George while I was taking pictures of the breath-taking nature around me at that moment.

sea turtle nests on floreana island

This lagoon is known to have pink flamingos visit from December to May. Sadly, we missed out on seeing the sophisticated creatures. After the quick educational lesson, we  continued on the path toward another bay – this one being very special. A little ways up the shore, a pattern could be seen in the white-sand beach. A number of rounded dugouts had been made, separated by mere inches from one another. Tour Guide George explained that these were sea-turtle nests and had just been emptied, pointing out the baby’s tracks that led to the ocean water.

I could see pieces of hatched eggs still sitting in one of the nests. We walked along the shore, the first feet to touch the sand that day – a perk of waking up at 5 a.m. – to try and look for any sea turtles that didn’t make it to the ocean. Overhead a black bird, most likely a Frigate, was soaring with its peering eyes to hopefully beat us to a baby to make it breakfast. Unfortunately for us and the bird, but lucky for the sea turtles, we did not find one. During the search party, I did get to see a sea lion basking in the sun, a Yellow Warbler prancing around on the sand and a Least Sandpiper running around on the beach.

looking out for sting rays on floreana island

We spent some time here exploring. I got to inspect my first set of tide-pools, which were sadly mostly empty but there were plenty of Sally Lightfoot crabs picking at the rocks for food. Tour Guide George had us gather around again to tell us that this bay area was known for having plenty of sting rays in the shallow areas. He had us go up to our knees in the ocean water to look at them. At one point, he grabbed my arm and pulled me around pointing at each one of them. I stood still enough that I felt them nibbling at my feet – either that or it was seaweed but I didn’t see any floating seaweed.

When I felt them, I pulled my leg up in fear, making myself look like a flamingo standing in the water. The waves were carrying the stingrays right up to us and some of the group actually said they stepped on one or two. Eventually, I walked back a bit to some of the more nervous bystanders, and was even lucky enough to see a stingray flap its “wings” on the surface of the water before disappearing beneath it once more.

After we all decided that we risked our lives enough, we headed back to the other side of the island to wait for the zodiacs to arrive. The sun had finally made its appearance and Tour Guide George was able to show us the crystals that give the beach its green olivine color.

green olivine crystals on floreana island - photo credit: rachel tavel

The crystals glistened underneath the sun and with a close eye, I could really seen the hint of green against the dark sand on the beach. Some sort of chemical reaction with lava creates the green crystals, which add to the majestic beauty of one more Galapagos island. Not too much later, the zodiacs rushed ashore to pick us up and take us for a nice breakfast on the catamaran before we would  put on our wetsuits again. Next stop: Champion Islet for another snorkeling opportunity – this time with some special friends.

a bird pirched on a tree branch in the floreana island lagoon

sea turtle tracks leading to the ocean on floreana island

least sandpiper on floreana island beach

yellow warbler on floreana island

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Gardner Bay – Galapagos Scrolls – Chapter III

The Nina in front of Gardner Bay - Galapagos Islands

The Nina sailed onto Gardner Bay after completion of our early morning exploration of Española Island.  We were eating lunch and I believe it was during this quick intermission between adventures that a smile was permanently sewn into my face for the remainder of the voyage (minus one unfortunate evening//night that you’ll read about in an upcoming chapter) because my expectations of the Galapagos Islands had already been surpassed. In just one morning – not even a full day – I had seen the rest of the animals that I wanted to see while island hopping. The landscapes reminded me of home, as well as my favorite t.v. show Xena: Warrior Princess. In other words, I could have left after this day and been a happy camper. I didn’t know how much better it could get – or even if it was possible – but it was.

Lounging with the sea lions in Gardner Bay

Tour Guide George came to the dining room and told us to get prepared for a wet landing on the beach of Gardner Bay. We could bring our snorkeling gear if we wanted or our towels to sun-bathe for a bit. It was early enough in the afternoon that we would have time to relax on the soft, white-sand beach. After putting on our swimming suits and layering our bodies with sunscreen, we boarded the zodiacs once more, but this time with no shoes. One by one we properly swung our legs over the side of the zodiac, letting our feet touch the cool water for the first time on our voyage, and walked ashore. Instantly, we were greeted with the sight of crowds and crowds of sea lions.

After the group had gathered ashore, tour guide George told us we had free time to sun-bathe with the sea lions, swim with the sea lions in the bay, snorkel with the sea turtles and explore the bay area as far as the group of rocks down the shoreline. My friend and I placed our bags near some logs and took off walking to get some shots with the sea lions that were just cuddled up in the sand, letting the sum warm them. A few were swimming along the beach, playing with each other – mainly mums and their babies. It amused me that they let the waves just roll them around as they crashed upon the sand. It was as if they preferred that area, letting their bodies swirl with the current.

a sea lion letting the ocean waves crash upon him in gardner bay

Once our stroll along the bay’s beach ended at the rocky point, we turned around and met up with our Norwegian friend who decided to smooth out her towel on the soft, white sand and take out her book. I went over to my backpack leaning against the log and pulled out my towel to join her. My friend shared half the towel with me after stripping down to her bathing suit to sun-tan. It wasn’t long before I got distracted by the sea lions and decided to go play with them.

At first, it was merely a picture-taking opportunity. I wanted to see how close I could get to posing with them and ended up being snorted at by a playful sea lion. It scared me a bit, because we had been almost nose-to-nose but then it started to wander away. I followed along, pretending to be a sea lion to amuse my friends before going back to the yellow towel to relax a bit. I still can’t get over the fact that we were sun-bathing with sea lions in the Galapaos Islands. These were animals that I’ve only seen as cartoons in movies or performance shows at Sea World, and yet, here they were in their natural environment lounging right beside us.

sun-bathing with sea lions in gardner bay

Within a few short minutes, tour guide George came and said that we should go back to the ship so we could get ready to snorkel. Once on board, we started squeezing into our wetsuits and putting on our fins that had been tried on and put aside in our snorkel bags with our room numbers on them. They would be ours for the duration of the voyage, keeping it organized and allowing us not to waste time trying every wetsuit on before each snorkeling opportunity. While we were getting prepared, the boat sailed to one of the 107 rocks and islets that are also apart of the Galapagos. Once stopped, we loaded the zodiacs again with our fins and goggles in hands and headed to the launch point.

We spit and squirted shampoo into the goggles to ensure clear vision, put on our fins and slowly, one by one, fell into the cold water. Tour guide George led us along the wall of the islet, where we could see underwater plants that grew on the rock. The water was incredibly deep and murky, making me a bit hesitant because I knew sharks also roamed this ocean.  I could barely see any fishes or plants deep down and so I stayed as close to the islet’s wall as possible. However, the bare visibility made my Norwegian-expat friend extremely nervous, and she asked to hold hands with me as we snorkeled.

my friend and i doing the blue-footed mating dance before heading out to snorkel

The group was slowly making its way around the islet, and my friend and I were in the middle hoping no shark would mistake us for a tasty sea lion. Not too long afterward, we were flapping our flippers and moving along with our eyes dashing back-and-forth when a GiANT sea lion popped right out of a murky underwater cloud. It was looking right at us as he swam past underneath of us. My Norwegian-expat friend and I let out a surprised scream. We popped our heads out of the water and looked at each other with large eyes. We eventually began laughing and smiling, looking around to see if anyone else in the group had noticed before we put our mouth pieces back in and placed our heads back on the water’s surface.

I regretfully did not have an under-water digital camera to shoot videos or pictures with during the voyage. I simply had a Kodak under-water film camera, which has not been developed yet. I apologize for the lack of under-water pictures.

We reached a small cove in the islet where we were allowed to snorkel around a bit. The zodiacs were always close by in case we raised our hands, which was the signal that we were done and ready to get out of the water. The cove had much better visibility and was not as deep. I could actually see white sand on the bottom and a variety of ocean plants. I was shocked once more, but this time it was because my Norwegian-expat friend had tugged at my arm. I looked at her and she pointed not too far ahead to a sea turtle gracefully swimming through the water. Immediately, I detached from her and swam closer to the sea turtle, watching it right below me. I followed it for as long as I could, not getting too far away from the group, until it disappeared into a murky cloud. After that, I felt like it had been a successful snorkel adventure and swam back to the zodiac where I climbed the mini-ladder and collapsed onto the side, shivering but still with that smile sewn into my face.

posing with sea lions in gardner bay

sea lion embracing sun's warmth in gardner bay

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

a sea lion swimming in gardner bay - the catamaran in the back

a pair of cuddly sea lions sun-bathing in gardner bay

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Places you should not miss in Ecuador

¡Hola! I am safely back from an unbelievable voyage around the Galapagos Islands. All desires were fulfilled and then some. Pics are being downloaded and posted. The video is in production – awaiting on my soundtrack selection and minor edits. I have decided to post a series of blogposts from each island to make it more manageable for myself and more enjoyable for readers.

In the mean time, the company where I intern, Viva Travel Guides, had all us interns contribute to a guest post for the travel blog Velvet Escape on the 10 places in Ecuador that you should not miss. The following is what I contributed as my favorite places and here is where you can find the rest.

the basilica del voto nacional in quito, ecuador

Basílica del Voto Nacional

The Basilica del Voto Nacional, which means National Vow, was built to symbolize Ecuador´s devotion to the Roman Catholic Church. It remains in an unfinished state and a rumor lingers among Ecuadorians that the world would end if construction was completed. For $2 USD you can explore every inch of the church, which is the largest neo-gothic basilica in the Americas. It has characteristics of European architecture and from the outside; the basilica´s façade actually looks similar to the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, France. However, one of its distinctive decorations is the grotesques, or gargoyles, which do not appear ominous or threatening, but are instead animals that call Ecuador home. Visitors can head into the sanctuary to admire the details in the stain-glass and tile designs before climbing the stairs of either clock tower that offers panoramic views. While ascending the clock towers, do not miss the chance to cross the wooden-plank bridge (you´re walking over the sanctuary) that will take you up more stairs and to another tower with more views of the city. For the extra-brave, there is another staircase near the tower that will take you even higher to a view worthy of overcoming any fear of heights.

one of many waterfalls along la ruta de las cascadas in baños, ecuador

Baños

This city is known as the gate-way to the Amazons. However, most travelers tend to stay in Baños for a decent period of time because of all it has to offer.  The city is situated near the Tungurahua volcano, which is the largest in Ecuador and can easily be climbed, surrounded by dense green forests. The geothermal hot springs are the number-one attraction. Foreigners and locals flock here almost every weekend to pick one of the mineral pools around town that are either warm or cool, depending on the mixture of spring water or that heated by the volcano. Spas offering an assortment of treatments can be found on almost every street. Besides soaking and relaxing, visitors can horseback ride in the hillsides or sign-up for a tour at one of numerous companies in Baños that can take you rafting or canyoning. Another popular activity is renting a mountain bike for $5 and cycling La Ruta de las Cascadas. You stop along the way to see waterfalls and most have tarabitas you can ride for $1-$2 that take you up-close-and personal with the raging water.

the cotopaxi volcano in the cotopaxi province of ecuador

Cotopaxi Volcano

The Cotopaxi Province is one of the most dazzling landscapes in Ecuador. Every picture makes it seem like you are on the set of a movie.  On a clear day, the vast Cotopaxi Volcano, which is the second-highest summit in Ecuador and debatably the highest active volcano in the world, can be seen. It´s snow-capped peak contrasts against the blue sky and green landscape. Hostels in the area offer many excursions such as hiking to the glacier and mountain biking down, or even climbing the Cotopaxi volcano. The alternative option for those not fit to scale the volcano at such a high altitude is to do a similar climb just on the back of a horse. A pretty lengthy horseback ride can take you up the Ruminahui Mountain where you can get a closer look at the volcano.  Cotopaxi has become a sense of cultural pride for the indigenous of Ecuador and a don´t miss for any who visit the country.

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